Quality shoes for wearing, not overthinking!
March 08, 2024
(Updated on: April 14, 2025)
A gent who buys a pair of Pellé Santino shoes is definitely bound to desert the “mass-produced nation”. Though there are a dozen that are a pleasure to recommend, none can stand better than Pellé Santino for anyone fresh to the realm of proper classic shoes.
I can’t with any certainty really say why classic shoe critics avoid reflecting shoemakers who are patronizing a simple make, native leathers, and exemplary prices. Instead, I want to stand up for the beauty and joy of shoes (and shoemakers!) that didn’t talk notoriously intricate.
The well-versed who want plenty of angles and shapes to go with very high stitch density should avoid this shoemaker. As far as being a nicely executed stitched build (flagship line is Goodyear Welted) with Full-grain buff leather and practical appeal if you regularly haul formals, Pellé Santino shoes meet the brief.
Understanding Pellé Santino Shoes
Are well-stitched sole units, insulated innards, promising leathers,
and purpose-fitting classic designs a good compromise for the
intense shape they lack? A matter of personal opinion I’d say!
Makers who aspire to make pairs that comply sartorial-y—Goodyear Welted, Full-grain leather uppers, serene design, et cetera—usually couldn’t keep themselves from taking the plunge of embedding buzz-generative nuances, often the complicated ones.
Brands often try to pull themselves out of the pit of ignorance using the rope of other people’s names and expertise. Have you stuck with those who keep telling everybody about their sourcing from renowned foreign tanneries (that, in reality, produce every grade of leather)? Yeah! Those are the ones.
Having pitched my tent in Pellé Santino’s camp for four years, a lengthy swath of which was burned in subscribing to their theory of ❝Not-Overdoing-Anything.❞ This realization crystallized for me in several stages.
When I first slipped on my Pellé Santino Ultra-flex Single Monk Loafers in brown, I viewed their simplicity—across construction, material, and design—as an odd norm. That coincided with when I began to wear their Goodyear Welted Chelsea regularly. It is no longer an Odd Norm but an omnipresent characteristic.
Anyway! Let me just explain this to you, pretending that you barely know anything about this subject. Start the dissection from the ground up.
Pros
- Best Value for Money
- Ready-to-wear Collections
- A Rather Short Break-in Period
- Durable Make and Material
Cons
- Leather sag
- Not Sharply Shaped
.01
Where Stitched Bottom Comes Standard
From ❝Blake Stitching,❞ the initial set, to ❝Goodyear Welt,❞
the flagship model, it is convenient to categorize
Pellé Santino’s offerings in terms of construction!
If you look at the way most shoes wear out, Pellé Santino probably does what will keep them going. Besides the intricate skills and additional cost, the tendency to slow down mass-shoemaking is why many large shoemakers avoid stitching bottoms in any manner.
Every brand, large or not so large, recognizes and embraces the enhanced resilience a sewn bottom brings: some revere by stitching the soles, others by printing the impressions of a seam.
A stitched sole is an amenity that comes standard with a pair of Pellé Santino. Of course, the integrity and complexity (and price) increase as we move from primary to flagship, but they never lose those threads.
They’re Quite Serious for Their Blakes
Pellé Santino’s Blakes are clean looking, with minimal fuss and hassle.
Can’t say fairer than that, really.
Contradicting the typical critic character suggesting to hook on the flagships, I’ve strayed on Pellé Santino’s ❝Introductory❞ fronts over the last couple of years which has been so good that I’ve become a believer.
My very first Pellé Santino, early 2020, was a Blake-stitched pair of suede penny loafers, which, at that time, sold as their epitome. It might not be too hard to Blake stitch a pair, as it is achieved via a machine that sews together the insole, uppers, and outsoles of shoes with a single stitch.
It is tough to Blake Stitch a pair with minimal fuss and hassle, and it is even more challenging to look good while doing so. A clean execution is what sets those pairs of Pellé Santinos apart from, well, every Blake Stitched pair I’ve worn before ’em.
From trimming the edges closely to managing neat-looking heels, they’ve secured every detail for which Blake Construction commonly (preferred) won praise. I chose not to stress the very low sole stitch density because everything is executed from within.
But the life of the thin outsoles, especially those used in their Ultra-Flex models, disappoints. The purpose might remain to avoid heel slippage and initiate flexibility, a relatively thicker outsole would become so after a wear.
Indeed, a thin sole keeps from a lengthy break-in period. But is it a good compromise for the shorter lifespan? You’d pay ₹5-6k. Which, in Many-one’s book, is still a hefty purchase.
Such flaws could be forgiven following the use-case loafers, as a style, harbors. The subsequent pair, a black Whole-cut Oxford, was fed by the same level of attention but furnished with a better outsole.
I wouldn’t fondly advocate a ready-to-wear whole-cut Oxford as these types of Oxfords have higher fitting potential. Fortunately, my one fits well immediately. Over time, the leather has expanded, and the V has narrowed.
Following its below-par buzz-generating prospects, many shoemakers fail to embed passion and emotion in their Blake offerings. Executing Blake Construction in such a refined and sophisticated manner requires a strong set of beliefs.
The Blake-stitched shoes make most, if not all, of Pellé Santino’s Best Selling list. The label hasn’t dulled the Blake’s sheen with the switch to Goodyear Welting.
They often introduce new styles with Blake construction. With their Blake stitched shoes, expectations are managed well; No matter how high they are!
And Quite Concise with Their Welted Shoes
Because they think most people don’t need
too hyperbolically built welted pairs.
Wearing a Goodyear Welted pair is experiencing the end result of a very lengthy process—a two-hundred-and-fifty-step process, give or take!
I covered the process in detail, so there is no lack of detail on them.
However, to successfully incorporate nuances into a welted pair is carried like a mark of technical prowess.
An opulence that was very widely adored, and for the exact same reason it was almost impossible to justify buying.
Those types of Goodyear-Welted Shoes are a curious choice if you’re drawn largely by Goodyear-Welting’s sheer practicality. I admit, functionality comes into it. The inclusion of nuances doesn’t mean compromising practicality.
But most people who see them—those hyperbolically built welted pairs—won’t even know what they’re looking at. While very few are surrounded by the cadre holding the credentials to comment on, let’s say, the very densely sewn welts or a very tight waist.
Rather than Welting shoes that are so ornamented they go well beyond the normal needs of the buyers, Pellé Santino Goodyear-Welt their shoes with fundamental components.
Truthfully, I received (not bought) a pair of Goodyear-welted Chelsea from them two years ago. More than the quality, I was prying to see how—in the absence of posh specs like fine waists or heels—the makers would manage to develop a character for these boots.
The Boot’s construction is so clear about what it’s for and how it should be used. It packs a 360° Goodyear Welt that favors nonporous conveniences over sleek, aesthetic heels.
A lockstitch runs through the upper, insole, and welt (The Welt is a ribbon of leather that runs around the edge of the upper), while an entirely separate stitch is used to attach the outsole.
Following the contemporary standards in Goodyear welting, they have canvas rib glued onto the insole which the welt is attached to—leaving a relatively chasmic cavity to fill with cork.
Indeed the construction is less precious than other (more expensive) labels. Though Pellé Santino shoes are well-integrated, they aren’t trying to pretend sleek.
Not that I want to give it any, you understand. But what to criticize? These pairs don’t evoke strong feelings one way or the other; there’s not much to comment on, positively or negatively. More nuances in such a build inevitably mean more things that can go wrong.
Not that I am calling into question the details and build quality of BLKBRD’s or Bridlen’s finest, but by and large it is Pellé Santino’s Welted Oxford that you would comfortably take to the daily stroll rather than the eighteen stitch-per-inch artifact.
Our hypothetical and casual generation may not be as committed to understanding every little quirk or nuance of an upscale welted pair that, for whatever reason, shoe geeks enjoy or put up with.
.02
Durable Materials Easy to Reckon
A concise material inventory that emphasizes durability and avoids
❝Confusion❞ too many choices often forms.
Regardless of the level of construction complexities embedded in a shoe—generally, the materials (leather and all) constitute the majority of the shoe’s overall cost.
Shoemakers manipulate the disclosure of materials in ways that favor them, following the blurry nature of the leather industry. Many makers source such materials from the world-renowned tannery.
Featuring such tannery (even if the lower-grade leather from them is used) alongside the term ❝Goodyear Welting❞ lets the maker position and rationalize a price.
For further enhancement, the many adjectives attached to leathers are deployed: box calf, Shell Cordovan, Chromexcel, and patent, to name a few. Learning about these leather expressions is essential to conveying your shoes’ lexicon.
But there’s really no need to forth in lofty and obtuse terms, possess abstract, critic-level vocabulary, or have an encyclopedic knowledge of tanneries’ names. At Pellé Santino, though, the material-disclosure-scene inspires more clarity than curiosity and revulsion.
They have a brief swath of material choices with Full-grain Buffalo leather at its core. The ‘textbook description’ describes Full-grain leather as a non-altered, strongest, outermost layer of the skin that develops a patina over time.
But that definition is open for alteration of any sort. Try not to expect a super tight grain from Pellé Santino. Some sanding has been performed to even out the finish. It develops that renowned patina alongside a sag, a standard case with Buffalo leather.
However, the leather is practical, hard-wearing, doesn’t require a connoisseur-level precision in care, and can be dressed up or down, from almost casual to definitely formal.
They did have some loafers, boots, and sneakers in Suede. Although the website labeled them as Premium Suede, that is actually Split Suede. As it is split from the grain area, it lets moisture, etc. through and stretches more easily.
On the material front, I admit that one could do a lot worse than their Suede loafers—the Pellé Santinos that I’ve mentioned earlier—at the same price.
In general, “It is a beautiful, rich material,” Luigi Fila, head designer at Italian brand Valstar, defines Suede like this, and I wholeheartedly share his sentiment.
Even the tiniest compromise—in the quality of Suede—can rob it of its unparalleled softness, luxurious feel, and matte, textured appearance. For Suede shoes, I highly recommend exploring the offerings of distinguished shoemakers such as Bridlen or BLKBRD.
I haven’t tried their Patent Lether shoes, so I don’t qualify to comment on them. Overall, I’ve always found their core materials more useful because they don’t rely on references that have meaning for the writer or snobs but are lost to the real user.
.03
They aren’t Sharply Shaped
Pellé Santino shoes may not be the last word in sophistication.
Why are we stressing on The Shape?
A shoe can be made to have shape, quite rightly so being as the foot has shape. But a few things are as maddening (or as elusive) as trying to convey the shape of a pair, both for the maker and the writer.
A solid construction or quality leather unfolds its amenities over the course of a period. An elegant shape, however, commands attention almost instantly. Still, shape and the relative merits of an elegant one are some of the hoarier topics in shoemaking.
Actually, the Goodyear-Welting process or the work inside the clicking room can be drip-fed through our devices. However, this quality—the shape—in dress shoes is hard to describe or portray, but its presence (and absence) can be felt in person.
And its effects are not a physical or mental stimulus so much as a psychological one. Elegant shape is the end result of a lengthy process.
It starts with an ambition to defy the mass-production rhythm that is battling to accommodate as many foot shapes in a size.
Followed by carving a beautiful last. How the upper hugs the last is a decisive step alongside a reason why many shoemakers avoid emphasizing the way the upper rounds and hugs those sharp curves on the outside of the vamp down to the toe box.
Shoemakers give up on shape as a skilled artisan needs to hand-pull the upper over the last to draft the shape. The hate exaggerates if the style requires a lengthy submission on the last. This process is called Blocking.
Pellé Santino Didn’t Shape Their Shoes?
I don’t think it is appropriate to bash a very elemental shoemaker for lacking an aspect typical to bespoke or higher-end brands.
Actually, I somewhat evaded seeking a shape on Ready-to-Wear venues until I gave PLNK a try.
But it’s not easy to reinforce an aggressive shape on shoes positioned in the affordable Ready-to-Wear segment. Rest in peace, PLNK.
I’m not claiming that Pellé Santino is not attempting to beautify their pairs or that Pellé Santino shoes are not pleasing to look at.
But How can one speak about someone’s shoemaking without benchmarking it against the best of the zone or the best in that price bracket?
It’s less about pointing out what Pellé Santino shoes are lacking, and more about jotting a fascination to have a bold shape.
With a more foot-like shape, the Pellé Santino shoes would have looked a bit more expensive than they really are.
Such fascinations are defensible, as brands like PLNK have shown that such characteristics are feasible at this price.
.04
The Price
Numbers that nullify any potential objections.
Seven thousand rupees for a Goodyear Welted pair. Two thousand less for a Blake Stitched one. Which, in someone’s book, is still a hefty purchase. Pellé Santino shoes, however, are difficult to ignore once you compare their pricing with other shoes of the same quality caliber.
Two and a half decades into the 21st century, and there isn’t much that you can’t make just as similar looking, and more cheaply, anywhere. Thus, sometimes the idea of buying a below-par-priced thing can turn out even scarier.
But Pellé Santino’s numbers have the force of reasons behind them and make logical sense. They have kept their nerves while settling on the leathers, inventory, and business model so the product—their shoes—doesn’t feel like a mere outcome of smart compromises.
The fact that Pellé Santino skews distributional cost by a direct-to-consumer business model has been much remarked upon; the fact they are leveraging our nation’s relatively affordable but equally skilled labor force, less so.
From relying on local suppliers for leather to avoiding the expensive romance of experimenting with various types, Pellé Santino stays defensive on the leather fronts knowing how drastically materials can affect the overall cost.
Everything is secured into a ready-to-wear shelf. Didn’t offer a large net of sizes. Just the regulars.
Overall, with a nice balance of business models and other selections (each carrying interesting pros and cons), Pellé Santino shoes will appeal to a younger generation whose means are limited by cash but ends are not limited by lifestyle.
.05
How They Wear?
Comfortable. Last Well.
But don’t expect them to look better.
What could be a better service, for you, than a direct comment on the comfort and durability you’d most likely experience with Pellé Santino?
But it is a tough ask knowing how personal, complex, and psychological the idea of comfort (and the spell of durability) could be.
Any claim on this rather subjective affair could be personal opinion and not necessarily objective truth.
I still very much consider myself a beginner, but I’m professional enough to overcome preconceptions and attempt to mention the most obvious experiences.
The Blake Stitched Pairs
The two Blake Stitched pairs showed their utmost comfort after (give or take) two weeks of standard office wear.
I maintained a firm grip on my expectations, thus barely anything caught me off guard.
These shoes are crafted in factory settings and designed to accommodate a ready-to-wear catalog. For that reason, a snug fit is unlikely unless your feet are on the wider side.
I was aware of the immutable plastic heel counters. One can not push against it but the materials. The leather molds and insole take impressions. I didn’t encounter any off-putting spots.
The specifics matter way less once you make them yours. It’s worth noting that the inclination to comfort is quite a Blake tradition. But its durability isn’t universal or necessarily objective.
The answer depends on how one perceives longevity. A Blake Pellé Santino may struggle to match the expectations of people sensitive to shape and silhouette.
A month of regular wear forms thicker deeper creases but it didn’t quite get pronounced from there.
Even though I’m associated with Pellé Santino, I wouldn’t sell you their leather through the language of character and patina it develops because the sag and drop can put off many users.
However, these pairs are not delicate. The Blake Construction is sturdy enough to hold everything for several years of office use.
The Goodyear Welted Chelsea
Often that sense of comfort is judged through nerves and sinews tied directly to the most comforting footwear experience so far. Welted pairs generally work on different levels, comfort, here, is derived from a more patient route.
A lengthier break-in period is another amenity standard to Goodyear Welted shoes, even for those from high-end shoemakers. But I find those Chelsea boots from Pellé Santino a little more brash.
Although the below-par pricing of the Pellé Santino Welted line is not subject to the sort of construction manipulation that higher-end shoemakers abhor.
It takes time to witness comfort in pairs that are more dextrous, communicative in the rough, and made with components that have a formidable reputation for toughness and reliability.
The materials and bottoms—especially for the leather outsole to attend a livable pliability—require a serious time commitment and slight insanity.
Whether all of this is necessary depends on who you ask, but even after that, the boots didn’t mold to my feet in the most delicious way. The sag and drop develop before I can forge the cardboard-crisp leather into a malleable, perfectly molded-to-your-feet pair.
And because these pairs couldn’t shape significantly, it’s crucial to get the right fit. If you’re going to Pellé Santino sizings for the first time, you may consider the label’s chat assistance to protect your investment.
The positives are that, if properly cared for, a Welted pair from Pellé Santino can last years—not double-digit years. The use of gemming in construction allows more cork as a footbed.
How Does It Compare To Rivals?
Do they have rivals? Well, not in the traditional sense. Except.
In a decade, the Indian shoemaking realm has seen a fierce surge in accumulating ❝Identity.❞ I’ve contemplated the evaluation of venerable shoemaking ateliers to global stages.
A bunch of unorganized makers clubed into a digital-only label. One would get saturated by brands selling cheaply cobbled shoes far from what’s digitally shown.
Overall, our classic shoe sphere now offers a broader palette to buy from. But no price bracket or category has enough depth to make a valid comparison.
Any improvement calls for a premium. Cutbacks led to major compromises. In fact, this lack of depth keeps us from confidently assuming the tag of a critic. For that reason, we find ourselves closer to the role of an informant.
Over the years, Pellé Santino has formed the templates for others around to make, or at least include a range, of proper classic shoes free of complexities.
Some can’t refrain from hiking their rates—take Bridlen’s Essential Collection, which saw a ₹2k increase—while others have come and gone, often without a trace. Some are particularly fond memories, gone too soon. R.I.P. PLNK.
SeeandWear Handmade Collection
Better get these if you’re not afraid of intense shoe care.
There are a few to talk about here, but SeeandWear’s Handmade collection should be considered before committing to the Pellé Santino Blake Shoes.
A premium of a thousand rupees for almost everything that Pellé Santino Blake Shoes lacks—Almost! There is enough separation between both labels. SeeandWear makes basic stitched-down buff-leather shoes. They were an instant hit.
Positioning itself with Blakes from Pellé Santino, the initial success empowers SeeandWear to explore a sophisticated and composed range of models for the rare breed of person. The models I’m emphasizing resonate very much with Gaziano & Girling’s distinctive “chisel toe” shape.
Equipped with Argentinian leather soles and full-grain crust leather uppers, SeeandWear’s Handmade collection showcases a strikingly aggressive shape. I’ve been wearing one for the past six months and admit that the exaggerated shape produces opulence that’s not standard with shoes at this price.
As with all ❝items of worth❞ made in crust leather, these SeeandWear require due care to ensure they stay in shape. Any stain is immune to the efforts of the best shoe repair professional. You might better consider Pellé Santino Goodyear welted shoes if more lavish shoe care is not your thing.
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