BLKBRD Boots Review. Based on 18 months of experience with two pairs.

My job profile at a Marble House in Makrana wasn’t constrained completely either inside offices or warehouses outside.

A client’s interests & decisions are shaped during warehouse visits and materialize inside the office.

This career course is what really engaged me in clothing that comfortably transitions from a quarry setting to an office environment.

Benchmarking mine against well-dressed Brits who are regulars at the firm, I learned that such hybrid integrity innate with classic unobtrusive pieces carrying premium.

My pay there wasn’t opulent enough to correspond with such premiums. Today, they are! But that dearth has taught me to doubt and see whether that premium is taken for quality.

There is something about following native makers aiming to deliver such quality through digital avenues. Such brands make one feel a little unsure of what’s going on.

Is the work actually that good? Is it all just artful photography? We all know how easy it is to position a boot just so and make the pair look pin-perfect.

Blackbird Shoemaker’s Boots collection somehow provokes similar thoughts and questions. They are a serious investment – one that needs serious consideration despite their very desirable digital persona.

The second pair (Dallas Moctoe boots)—which I got (not bought) three months before—has made me write this article expressing my sentiments on the brand’s bootmaking potential, which was primarily forged by the fifteen-month-old first pair (Fullbert-X cap-toe).

I rarely look at a collection by the course of their purchase procedure. But here, I did so because BLKBRD allows their clients to channel their purchases to taste.

They permit leather selection and sizing adjustments, and one can pick the last as well. This elucidates, in more ways than one, that they are not imposing their creations on us and want to involve the client.

Such services by a non-bespoke shoemaker are exceptional enough to redefine the rather trivial concept of ❝Customer Service❞ in the footwear domain.

BLKBRD propelled it to a level that I, for one, have never experienced elsewhere, even for much more expensive purchases (such as a vehicle or jewelry).

However, the extent of the involvement and the grandeur of the “Invent” depends very much on the client’s know-how. Choice is great, if you can choose well. 

I appreciate the option to have selects, but it’s a five-figure maneuver, and even if you know leathers and last’s shape nuances—I’ll recommend using their assistance to choose from what they have.

This may not seem intuitive, because we have been taught to think about boots rationally and to describe them in terms of one or two styles.

But it’s more effective to consider them. They’ll take you to a style that conjures the purpose you need a boot for. Increasingly, though, this can become an opportunity to determine whether you like a style.

Every stock style is well-thought-out, and elements work in harmony. All the styles are either ready-to-ship or made-to-order, depending on the availability of the picked size. If you suspect a problem with sizing, ask them for confirmation.

Describing a pair involves breaking it down into a group of construction and material components that, when all put together, develop a fictional clarity on whether the pair’s worth is in five figures or not.

Fictional Clarity because online-only brands are so pretentious now that, despite my best intentions, one has to see the key areas to draw the meaning and justification for the price.  

However, Ardent institutions like Bridlen and BLKBRD, through staggering disclosure, make us understand exactly what they’re trying to do. 

They talk on Instagram and their website about the decisions they have made and the style, material, and construction they sought. Such communication forges assurance that allows, without fear, to put trust in the people and, eventually, in the boots.

I have had two pairs of BLKBRD boots over the last two years. The one-line summary was that the construction and materials might put traditionalists on cloud nine, with design signals that this is a modern, sophisticated line of boots.

A boot ought to last long. That urge animates drastically as the price goes, well, higher. Many decisions—which a bootmaker has to take—must coalesce to create a boot that can last long. However, how they perceive ❝what will hold the boot together❞ tells a lot about a boot’s capabilities to withstand.  

Where many renowned Indian bootmakers deploy adhesives (the cheapest and least effective way) to hold the upper over the sole, BLKBRD goes to huge lengths to make traditional stitchings executed to tolerances imperceptible to the naked eye.

A swath of artisans hand-sew the sole unit and pack some pretty complex elements into a small space. The current line-up’s three construction methods naturally yield the robustness desired from a twenty, thirty, or fifty thousand rupee boot.   

BLKBRD’s upper-making artistry, however, took the label to the global stages. A good example would be their seamless and spiral-cut line. Impressive enough to force renowned critics to see Indian upper-making prowess from different slants.

They haven’t embedded such sophistication in their boots, but the apanage of having the uppers closed by the same artisans can be seen and felt.

Upper closing, in general, involves a range of highly skilled operations such as hand-sewing, punching, raw edge staining, fitting, and machine stitching pre-prepared sections together to form the upper and eyelets. 

I’ve worn the BLKBRDs with boots from similar makers, and most differences between each one were really subtle. Sewn at a similar stitch density, none have rough edges, and the overlay and joints blend gradually.

The bigger changes were the sharp profile, last definition, and pattern pieces leading to aggressive aesthetics, and this is an interesting element with BLKBRD collections, particularly as they cover more boots than shoes.

I’m not saying that the aesthetics of the two BLKBRDs I have are out of the classic guises. The pattern pieces are more aggressive—signifying their existence and producing the strength boot as a style harbor.

To balance the virility and to match the magnitude of its price, the boots have been given a relatively profound last definition—a cosmetic amenity atypical to boots from even more high-end makers.  

Featuring their round toe Bobber and Cuero last, the pairs are partly hand and machine lasted to have shape, quite rightly so being as the foot has shape. It is not a block.

You’d probably have a better idea of the shape by trying them in person. However, it’s also not a fair comparison because many (capable) makers are not trying to create a very visually attractive show through boots.

The thermal plastic pieces glued between the lining and the upper keep this shape and structure alive. More commonly known as ❝Hard countering❞ , and can be better done with a leather board.

Leather stiffeners contribute to the comfort of the molded upper. Developing an upper with such materials takes time and money. But makers like BLKBRD prevail because of the value point, so they need to retain that.

This is a complex affair. A brief rundown is pointless since I’m quite certain that you know nothing about any form of boot construction—Connoisseurs, Please don’t take any offense!

In late 2023, I received the Fullbert-X cap-toe commissioned in Veldtschoen (Veldt is Dutch of field), a construction method with the highest boot-worthy potential if executed with radical authenticity.

BLKBRD embraces the best elements of traditional bootmaking. Elements that failed to endure because of their rather costly (time and money) complexions.

With this technique, there was minimal room for cork filling, resulting in the foot settling directly onto the leather midsole. A stitch through the turned-out upper, welt, and leather midsole, while an entirely separate stitch is used to attach the rubber outsole.

I usually don’t get too excited with terms like Hand-made, hand-welting, or other equivalents—ever since I learned how much hand-work is enough to attach such terms. It might seem cold and clinical, but if the job could be done better by a machine, I don’t mind it being done by a machine.

However, there are benefits to Hand-welting a boot. The thick insole, the compact construction without large voids, and so forth on the hand-welted boots are considered ❝objectively better❞.

The Making tapestry of hand-welting—how holdfast is made, the smaller cavity it leaves, or in what ways this is better than gemming—could be better understood through a separate reading. Here, I’d encapsulate the outcomes (better and inferior) hand-welting produces.

I’m not trying to create a false discrepancy between the two methods. I wear their Dallas Moctoe boots in rotation with C&G’s Goodyear-welted Moctoe. The enhanced flexibility and grounded feel are the most obvious amenities unique to hand-welted boots.

As every element is connected directly to the structure of the insole, the boot feels flexible. This might seem like a small thing, but when you get into a routine with mass-produced boots, anything that’s even slightly better is apparent. 

Another benefit that is often said in favor of hand-welting is uniform wear. This makes sense as the leather (midsole) bears more permanent impressions of the foot than a thick layer of malleable cork filler. My wear for both the boots isn’t enough to attest to this claim.

I’m not urging you to pay better for such ❝slight nuances,❞ but, given the level of smart compromises Indian Goodyear welter applies, I admire the quality assurance coming with a hand-welted boot.

The instantly recognizable studded pattern makes the rubber outsole. This famous sole has been produced by the Harboro Rubber Company in the UK since the early 1900’s. The Fulbert’s is more subtle and might not age in the same way, but it leant a sense of authenticity.

The Dallas Moctoe Boot

The materials forming the Dallas are very well-thought-out. There was clearly a lot going on with it and something that would keep me engaged in a way that very few boots do, especially, the Chormexcel leather from renowned Horween.

It’s a beautiful outcome of a very complex (89 separate processes) and lengthy process (28 days). Three contrasts that make Chormexcel unique. First, chrome salts turn flesh into a soft and supple but very durable leather.

Second, infusing oils, grease, and waxes (including cosmetic grade beeswax) causes the ❝pull-up❞ of leather – the lightening of the hide due to the displacement of the oils. Third, hand-finishing the hide with coats of aniline dye and Neatsfoot oil.

Layer-wise, it lies somewhere between full-grain and top-grain. The leather is sanded for that even finish but just enough to keep the natural grains and maintain strength. I don’t enjoy criticizing but I don’t hesitate either if the point is fair and this leather, to me, appears very ❝boot-appropriate❞.

The wear is not too prolonged to make a fair analysis of how this leather ages, but I loved the way it creases. Defined but soft and light. Any Greasy Leather Cream (or anything that replicates the same type of oils used in Chromexcel tanning) can provide restoration and recoloring.

They did the outsole with Vibram’s Cristy (a blown rubber sole). These are great for those who don’t mind giving up a little on durability for a sneaker-like comfort and lightweight feel. A significant part of it touches the ground, thus providing excellent traction on natural terrain and pavement alike.

The act of buying boots (or shoes) online can rank high among life’s unpleasant tasks. Selecting that number is fraught with the fear of making a mistake, of wasting money, and of dealing with the complexities involved in the return.

I ordered the Fulbert in a size 40 (as they were out of stock, mine are Made-to-order). I got them in two weeks, and, initially, the only fit issue was a similar, slight roominess. With a thicker sock, it felt more enveloping. 

Thanks to the suede piece inside, the heel stayed snugly in place from the first wear. Despite an almond-shaped toe profile, there’s enough room to wiggle my toes around.

Moving up from the toes – that’s the long, bellowed tongue that runs up the front and might even be my favorite part of the boot. It’s very comforting, in contrast to the tough and rugged make elsewhere. And it’s a lovely feeling that folds around the foot as you lace them up. 

Fit-wise, few changes occur with age. The leather softens with wear. The facings moved a little closer to maintain the same fit. The impression on the insole, which was noticeable initially, paused or at least slowed down at a particular point.

Since the widths are standard, choosing a size smaller results in sacrificing the ideal length. Consequently, I find myself with a wide-toe box. I’m soaking that as a fitting issue arises due to attributes of different styles.

The fit was much too loose, as the heel was slipping. But that turned out to be largely down to the stiff sole. After a handful of walks, it stayed snugly in place once it softened up a little. 

These are hand-welted so, according to the theories, I should feel more grounded. But the thickness of the sole creates a tall dark barrier between the upper and the ground. 

It’s certainly not disproportionate to the rest of the boot, given its height. And it looks practical on a moc-toe. I have two more pairs of moc-toe boots, but that isn’t appropriate to compare them as the material and make are not really on par with the BLKBRD’s.

Realistically, though, I haven’t worn the boots enough to tell how the fit would evolve with time. Of course, the toe-box issue would persist. I might sound too harsh mentioning this one issue multiple times.

But sometimes this trade-off is not about good and bad, but good and great. From both cases, I learned to make an educated choice. Not just blindly following a rule. 

I’ve seen an influx of bootmakers just when I was willing to accept that BLKBRD and Bridlen are the bar. They are still the epitome. But let’s be frank, they’re not cheap.

While these two make boots with capabilities and use-case well beyond the needs (and knowledge) of many, some options are a significant step up from the High Street and represent a range in terms of quality, hopefully making them relevant to a large part of the readership.

Craft & Glory

Known materials, traditional make, and boots at the core.

Boots made of delicate materials seem like very serious business, which, for many people, is a turnoff. Craft & Glory understands that the classic, urban side of boots should not overwhelm its emotionally potent appeal.

The styles are mostly made in rugged Full-grain Buff leather and are sold on native soles. They do have several material points in common (similar to Bridlen and BLKBRD). Like they recently started to infuse chromexcel leather.

Still, C&G largely deviates from the complexities and nuances two giants take pride in. In terms of quality, the biggest differences are sole and interior materials, functional handwork like a hand-lasted upper, and aesthetic work such as higher stitch density.

However, there is little else to differentiate them from Goodyear-welting scenes. C&G Welt solidly and neatly (Here, by welt, I mean machine-welted and not hand-welted) with welts completely encircling the boot, including the heel. 

For a long time, I wore C&G’s 6″ Ranger and Moc. What they are so good at is keeping the balance and offering plenty of (legible) quality boots for the price (80 styles priced from ₹10k to ₹30k). And if you want a more targeted article on Craft & Glory boots, see here.

Kozasko

Even at more reasonable prices, they compare very favorably.

Kozasko is not a young brand and still seemed a little too quiet, but that was only because its brasher rivals were better at shouting their successes. I have a pair of boots from this brand that I’ve been wearing for two years now.

The label offers a better value for money in terms of the upper’s finishing and shape. The quality of row material—the lining, the sole, the upper—is almost on par with top-end makers’ base offering.

The crust leather (Full-grain) facilitates a fine, elegant finish—which has advantages and disadvantages. For example, that’s not necessarily a mix that promotes a rough use case but gives the latitude to wear them more smartly. 

They are dispersed on a rather broader spectrum of sizes, so fitting isn’t a huge concern, despite the boots made on a relatively narrow last. Can’t say about their hand-welted boots because the pairs I wear are Goodyear-welted and are cleanly made.

To my knowledge, Kozasko is the only bootmaker offering a repair service. They do boots in other materials (other than crust) and are recommendable at this price (from ₹12k to ₹27k). It actually will go to meetings too, which can’t be taken for granted in this class.

Bridlen

Remains the definitive Indian bootmaker.

Well, this is Bridlen. What did you expect? No bootmaker in India has managed to squeeze top materials, traditional construction (in an old-skool tone), connoisseur-level nuances, personalized requests, and value as beautifully as Bridlen. Everything just… works.

The Chennai-based Bootmakers & Shoemakers (who dub themselves just Shoemakers before mid-2024) have a dense history behind them. Bridlen believed in ❝Traditional Bootmaking❞ since the late 1980s, while others are simply basking in the glow of the attention it got after 2018.

The boots on the website, Gallery (their experience store in Chennai), and in the Trunk Shows are developments of more than four decades of bootmaking experience. Their boots are comfortable and usable as a super-saloon but satisfy on many more levels.

The differences Bridlen bootmakers can make (and their boots have) are partly noticeable and the rest are catnip to bespoke fans. I have covered those nuances here. Still, the prices (starting from ₹23k to ❝the sky is the limit❞) are justifiable—to a trained palate. 

There isn’t really a duff model in the range; it is just a question of what you want, aligning it with what the model is for, and how it should be used. For many, that might translate to an attempt to know the leather.

BLKBRD uses high-quality leather. However, not all qualify as “High-quality” in the way that was long assumed. Many consider leather quality good if the boots’ leather endures the most brutal wear yet manages to look untouched. And that conjecture about leather quality fortifies with the price.

The materials forming the Dallas could live up to the most unreal expectations if cared for properly. Materials of Fulbert are capable too— but this does not necessarily imply that they are likely to be utilized as depicted in Woodland commercials.

My cognitions of ❝how boots should be used❞ were forged during those seven years in the marble industry. I expect all types of boots—those with the lumper and with the overseas clients—to look great 24/7 and soak up a great deal of punishment along the way.

I’ll never forget my first Classic boot blunder. I only had myself to blame, really. However, that helped me draw a line and re-organize my boot instincts. Fulbert’s are masculine but elegant leathers conceived for strolling across the pavements of genteel streets, the polished floors of gentleman’s clubs, and the country houses. 

Construction, however, is undemanding. BLKBRD’s execution is neat and prone to support any use-case, and that’s been kept at the forefront of every style of their boot line. Every model is richly appointed inside as well.